You might not think punk and couture go together but Chanel is about to change your mind.
Virginie Viard managed to fuse opulence with the grittiness of the punk era through her use of precious tweed and CHANEL high jewellery.
“I was thinking about a punk princess coming out of ‘Le Palace’ at dawn,” reveals Viard. “With a taffeta dress, big hair, feathers and lots of jewellery. This collection is more inspired by Karl Lagerfeld than Gabrielle Chanel. Karl would go to ‘Le Palace’, he would accompany these very sophisticated and very dressed up women, who were very eccentric too.”
Consisting of 30 looks, the Fall-Winter 2020/21 Haute Couture collection celebrates the fine craft of embroidery from the Maisons partners – Métiers d’art Lesage and Montex, as well as Lemarié and Goossens. Each has contributed to the precious tweeds embellished with sequins, strass, stones and beads.
A diamond-like braiding adorns the ink black trouser suits, short dresses with cinched waists and corolla skirts rustle alongside long dresses with a very Grand Siècle allure, and the noble authority of heroines escaping from 19th century tableaux.
“I thought about paintings, but it was more German paintings,” says Viard. “I really had Karl’s world in mind.”
The ultra-rock romanticism is seen through black and grey outfit that are offset with flashes of pink. If you were to summarise the mood of the collection in one look, it’s the jacket with an entirely smocked waist that has been worn over tapered boot-trousers in black suede.
“For me, Haute Couture is romantic by its very essence. There is so much love in each one of these silhouettes,” she adds.
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