Sculptural modesty.
Designer Roksanda Ilinčić has won herself a loyal fan base thanks to her use of colour-blocking and modest silhouettes.
Her sculptural and feminine aesthetic has caught the eye of a leading plus-size luxury brand Marina Rinaldi that has enlisted her as their guest designer for the next two seasons.
First collection is inspired by Frank Stella, one of the most prominent figures in the field of minimalist art in the late 20th century, and showcases knitwear, flowing fabrics and rich colours.
Why did you decide to collaborate with Marina Rinaldi?
I have had a long-standing awareness of Marina Rinaldi and an appreciation of how the brand represents the luxurious craftsmanship and heritage of one of Italy’s oldest fashion houses in an inclusive way. As a designer, I believe that clothing can be a beautiful form of expression and should empower the woman who wears it regardless of their shape, age, skin colour etc – and this philosophy is one that is shared by Marina Rinaldi. The brand has been such a pioneer in championing design and style for a diverse range of body shapes, which has made them an incredibly exciting partner.
Talk us through the inspiration.
The various visual disciplines of Art, Architecture, sculpture, are always first instinct for me when it comes to being inspired for a collection. For this capsule collection, I was hugely inspired by my visits to Reggio Emilia and the incredible Collezione Maramotti, which is displayed in one of the old Max Mara factories. The opportunity to be surrounded by such iconic contemporary art and immersed in the rich heritage of the brand inspired me to filter that even further and interpret it in my own way and translate that in the collection.
How do you want a woman to feel in the pieces?
As a woman, I believe in the power of clothes to give you confidence and strength, and to allow you to have fun. Fashion and our clothing should be an extension of personalities and something through which we communicate more about ourselves and our tastes, whatever our shape. With this capsule collection, I wanted to readdress femininity and ensure that women of all diversities feel that they should have fun with what they wear and get nothing else but joy out of it.
Which piece is your personal favourite and why?
One of my favourite pieces in the collection is a “cut and sew” dress, initially inspired by the work of the wonderful Frank Stella. The elements of colour, texture and art are all fused together in this one piece
How has your own journey shaped your design aesthetic today?
I initially studied and trained in architecture and the process of design has many similarities to an architect designing a structure. The notion of shelter, protection, strength is deeply rooted within my design ethos and how I approach fashion and clothing, where I am building forms and sculpture around the body to create a protective layer.
There is a lot more diversity in fashion, how do you see that evolving?
The fashion world in our current climate has moved drastically from where it was even 5 years ago, and it is so exciting to be in a time where we are more and more trying to acknowledge diversity in body shapes and culture. I am a firm believer that fashion should be inclusive and I am confident that the fashion industry will evolve even more to be inclusive of all diversities.
Your collections strike a balance between modesty and elegance, have you found that to be an appealing factor to clients in the Middle East?
My designs are often described as ‘modest’, this is something that I have naturally been doing as I feel that to be feminine you don’t need to always be showing off so much flesh, but to be comfortable in your own skin. For me, the most exciting part of my work is to see women all over the world enjoying my designs and my clients in the Middle East are some of my most loyal clients.
What is Roksanda doing to support sustainability in fashion?
It is interesting that one of the most unsustainable elements in fashion is transport. To minimalize carbon footprint, I am working to source and produce more garments locally – in my case the UK and in particular London. This is something that I am consciously trying to increase at the moment. Choice of sustainable fabric is another strong field where we are expending and this is in particular interesting for me as a designer. Another area is plastic and finding the ways to replace it with different type of packaging material – this is something I am most passionate about.
Who is your ultimate style muse?
My mum, she is my constant inspiration and the reason why I am working in fashion.
What is the best piece of advice you ever received?
“Don’t follow advice. Follow your heart”
Describe the view from your window today.
I am lucky to be working on the top of beautiful Regent’s canal so at the moment I am looking at the water, swans and lots of colourful boats.
Marina Rinaldi by Roksanda will land in stores soon.
Media: Supplied
