Turbo-boosting collagen production, improving scars and stretch marks and evening out skin are all results of the microneedling treatment that is seeing a serious revival. “You can experience a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, as well as enlarged pores. It can also be used as part of a protocol to treat scars,” says Dr Shadan Naji, Dermatologist at Dr Kayle Aesthetic Clinic in Dubai.

What is microneedling?

“In essence, we create microchannels in the skin and these activate the remodelling and rejuvenation of the skin, to increase collagen supplies,” Dr Naji explains. The process evokes the same repair process as it would for a wound; skin starts to treat those micro injuries resulting in an improved texture. The short-term bene ts will see your skin looking plump and youthful. According to studies, monthly microneedling sessions can result in up to a 400 per cent increase in collagen and elastin production over six months.

The procedure

The procedure itself usually begins with cleansing the skin, followed by a topical numbing cream. Once it takes effect, your doctor will apply a serum that encourages healing before using the microneedling pen over the face to create small openings for the serum to soak into. After this, another serum is applied followed by a facemask to seal everything in.



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How it has evolved?

The approach varies from clinic to clinic, but overall microneedling has come a long way since it was first introduced in 1995: “The dermaroller was the first official device in the evolution of microneedling, but because the needles penetrate the skin at an angle, and the needle depth and speed cannot be customized, there is a greater chance of skin damage, pain and recovery time,” says Rebecca Treston, Skincare expert at Dubai London Clinic. “Different areas of the face require different penetration depths to achieve the best results, and unfortunately, this was not an option with the first dermarollers.”

Technology evolved with the discovery of the microneedling pen, which is a motorized device with multiple needles and varying options of speed and depth of needle penetration. “This means the injury to the skin can be controlled and there is less injury to the skin, because the needles penetrate the skin vertically, resulting in less pain, less downtime and less damage to the skin,” explains Treston. “With the pen, we can also treat those hard-to-reach areas, such as the area around the eyes, upper lip and nose.” But evolution doesn’t stop there. The latest innovation is Secret RF, which combines microneedling with fractional radiofrequency. “This device can deliver heat to deeper layers of the skin with controlled RF energy and that makes it superior over standard microneedling, which can only treat the surface of the skin and there is virtually no downtime,” adds Treston.

At home approach

Previously reserved for in-clinic appointments, the all-over body treatment can now even be performed at home, however, you do have to invest in the right tools and be aware that the results might not be as effective as you’d expect from an in-clinic environment. “At home you can only experience superficial microneedling, whereas in the clinic, you can penetrate deeper as the tools are more powerful and can be customised by using needles to penetrate different depths,” says Dr Naji. “Also, the dermatologist is an expert at creating the type of positive inflammation we need to generate the results.” Treston advice to those who do wish to tackle fine lines and mild scarring at home should not use more than a 0.25mm needle to avoid damage to the dermis. “Clinicians will use not just basic apparatus such as derma pen and rollers, they also have devices that combine microneedling with radiofrequency, which uses heat to stimulate more collagen,” she adds. “This is popular for scarring as it affects the SMAS layer.  In a clinic environment, you can also include subcision to improve fibrotic scarring. As this requires deeper penetration, it should only be done by a medically trained expert so there will not be damage to the skin.”  It’s also important to note that you are breaking the surface of the skin, so any dermaroller that you choose to use, must be sanitised.

What to use

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