Lucy Goff, the mastermind behind science-led skincare brand LYMA, talks to EW about shaping the future of beauty with its latest pioneering product and more.
What was the catalyst to expand LYMA into skincare?
LYMA Skincare initially began when we launched five years ago but my mission for LYMA, and the promise I made to our customers, was to only create products that are evidence-based and scientifically proven to work. It was how we created the Supplement and the Laser, and LYMA Skincare was no different. Just as with the supplement industry, beauty product claims are awash with hyperbole and unsubstantiated promises – no one seems to be dealing in transparency or hard scientific proof. Also, the benchmark for skincare right now stops at treating symptoms that appear on the epidermis, but by that time it’s already too late. LYMA is in the business of breaking barriers, so for us that was achieving skincare capable of changing the age of the dermis, speaking to DNA, and altering gene expression so as to shift the body’s innate ageing mechanisms. But even then, stabilizing this world-first formula took a further two years. All that plus we wouldn’t compromise on the proof – we had to be able to produce clinical results that showed outright that this formula transforms skin. Cracking that code has taken a long time.
What was the catalyst that led you to develop LYMA Skincare?
Honestly, there hasn’t been an aha moment, I’ve always been a fiend for luxury skincare, but I have spent decades searching for a topical formula capable of profound dermal change. I wasn’t about to formulate more of the same, so LYMA Skincare had to be built slowly and steadily on the back of scientific discovery. Professor Paul Clayton published a paper establishing the eight prominent ageing mechanisms behind skin ageing. When he shared that with me, I convinced our Director of Aesthetics, Dr Graeme Glass, a leading geneticist and stem cell expert, to systematically identify patented skincare actives proven to alter each of those processes at a cellular level. The day we had every ingredient in place to create that profound change within a stable formula, perhaps that was my aha! moment.
What makes it a game-changing beauty product?
The majority of existing skincare products treat the top 20% of superficial skin cells in the epidermis, meaning they only benefit the cells on the very surface. However, LYMA Skincare is designed using Genolytic™ technology that targets cells through every layer of the skin that conventional formulas cannot reach. This generates a profound structural shift deep within the dermis transforming the 80% of living dermal cells that conventional skincare has never before been able to target. Then there’s the one-of-a-kind patented delivery system; a specific type of liposome small enough for high skin absorption that works by releasing the entrapped ingredients as the membranes merge with the skin, increasing the penetration of the active ingredients throughout the different skin layers. If that weren’t enough, we’ve flipped the game on its head in terms of potency too by formulating LYMA Skincare with 80% actives and 20% water, a direct opposite of nearly all products on the market. I mean it when I say that we challenged and overcame every existing boundary there was.
Could you explain the science behind epigenetics and how it affects our skin?
Epigenetics refers to the science of how our genes operate and how external factors can impact them. We think our DNA is set in stone but over our lifetime, our gene expression changes in accordance with what our body is exposed to. Epigenetics focuses on the factors that dictate how and when those genes are turned on or turned off. When we talk about epigenetics with regards to skin, it’s predominantly the mitochondrial decline of skin cells because much of our skin’s behaviour and therefore appearance is down to maintaining energy in cells. As we age, our mitochondrial function declines and skin is unable to heal as quickly, it loses elasticity, tone becomes uneven, pigmentation amasses, and wrinkles and fine lines start to form. LYMA Skincare provides the opportunity to turn the epigenetic clock backwards by addressing the factors that are causing genes to age. Put simply, we can dial down the factors that promote collagen degradation or the breaking down of structural proteins and likewise, we can dial up the factors that regenerate and reenergise skin. LYMA Skincare is the new control panel for skin ageing if you like!
How is the LYMA Skincare intended to be used to drive a truly transformative skin result?
LYMA Skincare is delivered in a two-step bioactive protocol and while we suggest three pumps of the LYMA Serum and Cream, the more you use, the more transformative the effects. Double the dose to six pumps of the serum and cream when you want to accelerate results.
1. Always start with double-cleansed skin. This allows the formula to sink in properly when applied.
2. Rub three pumps of LYMA Serum between your fingertips, then massage into your skin using gentle circular motions to ensure even coverage across the face and neck. You may notice a slightly medicinal scent which is due to the formula’s high concentration of actives.
3. Once fully absorbed (up to one minute), follow with three pumps of LYMA Cream, massaging gently into the face and neck until a white film forms. This is completely normal and is a sign that the formula is getting to work.
4. Leave for a full minute to allow the actives to penetrate.
5. Massage the remaining LYMA Cream into the skin using gentle circular motions until fully absorbed. Don’t forget to take your time – the slower the better.
“When you surround yourself with innovators, you continue to be inspired to push and break boundaries.”
How do you continue to be at the forefront of skincare innovation and where do you get this motivation from?
At LYMA we have an incredibly wide-ranging team of expert scientists, all at the top of their game in their respective fields, from biochemists to longevity doctors. When you surround yourself with innovators, you continue to be inspired to push and break boundaries. That link between LYMA and the scientific community is so strong that as scientific research evolves our way of thinking about the world, so too will LYMA. For me, exceeding expectations and changing preconceptions have always been what drives me. By not following the format adopted by the rest of the industry, we never stand still and continue to soar. I love that.
How long does it take to turn an idea into reality?
Longer than you’d imagine because when you lead rather than follow, there are always unexpected hurdles to setting the new path. All our world-first products have taken some time to develop but skincare was by far the longest development process. It was such a saturated market, with no real innovation for quite some time, so we really needed to get granular in the details of what we wanted to develop, step well away from everyone else and not be afraid to push boundaries in how we got there. For LYMA Skincare, this process took a five-year timespan which for traditional cosmetics industry companies, would never be viable.
What is most important to you when building a new product?
Scientific endeavours and innovation are fundamental to everything we do here at LYMA. A brand can have the most beautiful packaging or luxurious experience, but it’s meaningless without the hard proof that the product is actually working. That goes for potent skincare actives too; a world-class formula is worth nothing if it cannot penetrate through to the layers of skin it needs to so as to initiate profound change. Creating scientifically proven, evidence-based products will always remain at the heart of LYMA, no matter how long we take to get there!
Where do you see the beauty and skincare industry evolving in the next five years?
Consumers are smart and informed, they’re done with being told that something is “magic” or a “miracle”, they want science, and security in the knowledge that they are buying hi-tech solutions to age old problems. We are moving away from trendy skincare ingredients and multi-step routines and instead, focusing on high-quality ingredients and streamlined protocols, scientifically proven to work. Clinical studies and expert recommendations from scientific leading voices will be a must, as they always have been for us. Yes, beauty will always have that experiential element, but I think for brands to keep up, science needs to be at the core of every development otherwise, they will be lost in the noise.
This is The Trailblazers Issue – what is your latest, most trailblazing beauty discovery?
Adopting a 360 anti-ageing protocol that increases skin health at every level. The combination of LYMA Skincare, the Supplement and the LYMA Laser when used together? The results are completely incredible. The Supplement supports collagen production, provides antioxidant protection and increases keratin synthesis in the skin from within. Then the actives in LYMA Skincare have not only been selected because they’re proven to change cellular behaviour, they also work in conjunction with the LYMA Laser to boost the transportation of molecules and the uptake of active ingredients into the skin. The Laser becomes this perfect trans-dermal topical delivery system, increasing the diffusion of lipid soluble compounds whilst also enhancing the uptake of water-soluble compounds. It’s a complete ecosystem of skin health. I’m 50 and my skin looks better than it did in my 30’s and that’s entirely down to LYMA.
September – The Trailblazers Issue with Amira Sajwani – Download Now
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