Gucci’s Creative Director, Sabato De Sarno, made a bold statement with the Gucci Cruise 2025 collection, choosing the iconic Tate Modern in London as the venue.
Gucci returns to London
This return to London marks a significant moment for the brand, paying homage to the city that profoundly influenced Guccio Gucci, the House’s founder. The decision to host the show at Tate Modern underscores the essence of modernity and the juxtaposition of tradition and innovation that the collection embodies.
A Venue of Cultural Confluence
Tate Modern, renowned for its dynamic space and cultural significance, provided the perfect backdrop for De Sarno’s vision. The Turbine Hall, a vast space that naturally gathers people, set the stage for the fashion show, embodying the inclusive spirit of London. Meanwhile, the Tanks, often used as generators of artistic ideas, were transformed into a poetic panorama of greenery, symbolizing the intersection of man and nature, urban and rural, sentimental and minimal.
Front Row at Gucci Cruise 2025
The front row was a veritable who’s who of the fashion world, celebrities, and influencers. Attendees included the likes of Alia Bhatt, Dua Lipa, Paul Mescal and Demi Moore. Other notable guests included content creators Aimee Song and Ola Rafahat, reflecting Gucci’s global appeal and cultural reach. Their presence underscored the collection’s blend of historical reverence and contemporary edge.
An amalgamation of Memories and Inspirations
De Sarno’s narrative for the collection was deeply personal, weaving his memories and experiences with the city of London. His approach reflected a broader journey of exploring a creative direction within an established framework. This blend of heritage and personal vision was apparent in every piece, therefore, it reflects both Gucci’s historical roots and De Sarno’s contemporary sensibilities.
The Cruise Collection: A Dance of Dichotomies
The Cruise 2025 collection celebrated dichotomies and contradictions, reflecting the multifaceted nature of London itself. De Sarno juxtaposed rigor with extravagance, strength with delicacy, and Englishness with an Italian accent. The result was a collection that challenged preconceptions and celebrated individuality.
Tailoring and Textile Innovation
Precision tailoring was a highlight, with short coats in technical gabardine featuring sharp, clean lines juxtaposed with soft chamomile flora motifs. This interplay of structure and softness was a recurring theme, with flower embroideries rendered in three dimensions through laser-cut organza and hand-moulded sequins. These elements moved freely around the body, adding a dynamic, almost ethereal quality to the garments.
Sartorial Fusion
De Sarno skillfully fused sartorial elegance with workwear functionality. The iconic lobster clasp, typically seen on Gucci’s accessories, was reimagined on a feminine pearl necklace, serving both as decoration and a badge of belonging. Horsebit details on suede pieces paid homage to Gucci’s equestrian heritage, while relaxed denim and flat shoes like ballerinas and creepers offered a casual counterpoint to more structured elements.
Reinterpreting British Style
Symbols of British style, such as tartans and tailored pieces, were re-energized for a new generation. Plaids were transformed into delicate embroidered bead fringes, giving a fresh, animated look to classic patterns. The Gucci Blondie bag, a nod to 1970s Italy, combined preciousness with pragmatism, featuring leather-clad logos and jewelry-inspired techniques.
Gucci’s return to London was a masterful blend of heritage and modernity, personal narrative, and universal appeal. Sabato De Sarno’s exploration of dichotomies and his celebration of individuality were perfectly encapsulated in the vibrant, dynamic setting of Tate Modern. This show not only honored the legacy of Gucci but also charted a bold new direction for the future.
Take a look at our top picks from the Gucci Cruise 2025 collection:
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Images: Supplied by Gucci
