Fabrizio Buonamassa-Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director at Bvlgari, deep dives into a stellar collaboration where artistry meet serial innovation: Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti – a modern masterpiece with avant-garde aesthetics and cutting-edge horological engineering.

Tell us about your role as Product Creation Executive Director at Bvlgari.

I design all watches – from women’s to men’s lines. I love objects, and I draw inspiration from everything in my life. When I have an idea, I instantly start sketching. Then we look at the feasibility of the project, and whether it’s even possible to continue from a technical and design standpoint. Often, combining the two is a bit complicated, but usually, we manage to make it work. I love the technical challenge of transforming what I have in my mind.

How have your previous experiences informed and helped you in your current role?

I used to work in the automotive design sector. There are similarities in watch and car design – I often compare the technicality as well. As I mentioned earlier, I find inspiration everywhere. The automotive industry is part of my journey as a designer, so it’s clear that it has shaped who I am as a designer today. The complexity lies in finding the right balance between design and technicality in each car or watch.

What prompted the move to create the BVLGARI x MB&F Serpenti watch – what was the idea behind it?

Max and I get along very well. We had already collaborated in the past on the Allegra model. This most recent collaboration happened very naturally. He and I were talking, and I suggested a masculine Serpenti. Maximilian was on board right away! This collaboration was seamless, and straightforward. In a matter of days the sketch was final. Combining Bvlgari’s iconic serpent with MB&F incredible movements and sculpture-like design is a winning combo in my opinion. I am extremely proud of our collaboration and this Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti.

The unveiling of the collaboration was held at the Bvlgari Yacht Club recently. How has it been received since it was launched?

It’s incredible! The buzz around this piece is immense. We’re delighted to be able to offer a creation that generates so much excitement. The press conference was very well received by the watch club and the media.

This is the first time a women’s timepiece is reimagined into a men’s novelty. What was the creation process like?

Indeed – it is the first time that we are bringing a women’s watch into the men’s universe. However, this does not mark the beginning of Serpentis for men.

How does the BVLGARI x MB&F Serpenti watch represent the brand’s style and DNA?

The essence of the Maison’s DNA is found in its boldness. This creation aligns perfectly with Bvlgari’s established codes. Although this piece does not adhere to any specific aesthetic conventions, it embodies the Maison’s spirit of continually daring to innovate.

“It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s dna but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise”

What were the challenges you encountered in creating this timepiece and how did you overcome it?

For this project, it was necessary to redesign the entire Bulldog case to create a central opening that reveals the balance wheel and the cage, as well as the snake’s eyes for reading the time. The aim was to have a totally different vision of the snake. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.

“The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon”

Once perfected aesthetically, the design then needed to be engineered and manufactured – and this generated a number of further challenges. The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti case is all about curves. The complex curves extend beyond the metal of the case to the five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and the multi-faceted rear section – all treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides and providing large openings on the movement. This combination of curved metals and sapphire crystals is not only extremely difficult to machine and finish, but also incredibly challenging to make water-resistant to 30 metres.

Talk us through the process on how you worked with MB&F to make this collaboration seamless.

We’ve worked with MB&F before, and the exchange is always pleasant and easy, and we share the same vision. This second collaboration was obvious. We had a lot of long-distance exchanges, but everything went very well.

What lies ahead for the brand in terms of its horological timepieces?

You’ll see at Watches & Wonders in April! We’re pushing the boundaries even further by offering exceptional pieces with incredible craftsmanship. We’re very excited about the upcoming launches.

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Images: Supplied