May’s – ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – Download Now

Mary Katrantzou shares her journey of harnessing the power of transformation to create ‘Serpenti Through the Eyes of’ Bvlgari’s exclusive capsule collection.

How did the collaboration with Bvlgari originate and where does the name come from?

Bvlgari kindly loaned us their one-of-a-kind High Jewellery pieces for my first couture show which took place at The Temple Of Poseidon, in October 2019 and this was where our relationship started. We both felt a strong synergy and mutual appreciation so it felt natural when they invited me to interpret “Serpenti Through My Own Eyes”. As a starting point, I went to Rome and met up with Mireia Lopez Montoya, the Managing Director of Accessories, who showed me around Bvlgari’s historical archives. I had the opportunity to see all the iconic pieces that became the inspiration to our collection. I believe the future of fashion is built on the idea of collaboration. I grew up appreciating the codes of Bvlgari and I’m honoured to contribute to the evolution of the Serpenti icon.

Bvlgari Serpenti

The collection focuses on the subject of Metamorphosis, tell us more?

I have long been fascinated by the process of metamorphosis – from adapting to continue evolving. When I was asked to interpret the iconic Serpenti through my own eyes, I knew immediately that I wanted to highlight its nature as a symbol of transformation and rebirth. As a snake sheds its skin to allow for further growth,  I wanted to visually showcase this transformation within the collection. My intention was to bring to life a message of optimism snd spiritual growth. In the bespoke artwork, I designed for one of the bags, the Serpenti is portrayed as it transforms into a spiral of butterflies. Butterflies are also one of the truest examples of metamorphosis as they experience a four-stage lifecycle. The journey of metamorphosis became the centre point of this collaboration and I feel it’s more relevant now than ever before as we are all experiencing our own transformation as the world is changing around us.

How have you incorporated the values of Bvlgari throughout this collection? 

My mother used to wear Bvlgari jewellery when I was growing up, so I was familiar with their aesthetic at a very young age. Being able to study their archives and discover their design codes, I feel we share a similar vision. We share a common appreciation of harmony and balance, a focus on timeless elegance whilst being daring at the same time and of course an affinity to bold colour. With the minaudière as an example, I was inspired by Bvlgari’s much-adored Serpenti watch. Bringing the iconic Serpenti head to the forefront of the design, I wanted to use its shape to define the silhouette of the minaudière. It was a BVLGARI first and I really think it creates a strong link between the world of High Jewellery, the world of watches snd the world of accessories.

This collection also includes a fragrance, Omina. Tell us about the collaboration with Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas on the creation of this new scent?

Through the ‘Serpenti Through The Eyes Of’ collection and our Omina collaboration, I was able to apply my creativity to two different worlds of Bvlgari. I was inspired by the joyful spirit and the exuberance of the Omina Collection which is why we decided to focus on crafting Omina by Mary Katranzou, together with Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas. My intention was to captivate the uplifting energy of nature’s most wondrous flowers and create a world of reassuring and touchable joy.

Bvlgari Serpent x Mary Katranstzou

What is your signature scent?

I love the smell of fresh gardenias and that of mandarin and orange blossom. Alberto used these notes to create our Omnia fragrance that is based on my childhood memories of my summers spent in Greece.

This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – which specific scent evokes childhood memories for you?

My favourite flower is gardenia. When I was growing up, we had a beautiful gardenia tree in our garden and my mother used to put them in tiny glass vases on our bedside table. It was the first smell I experienced while waking up every day and before going to bed at night.

May’s – ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – Download Now

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Images: Supplied