Amit Aggarwal, a visionary in the world of fashion, is renowned for his innovative approach to blending traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary design aesthetics. His latest collection, ANTEVORTA, exemplifies this philosophy, exploring the concept of ‘time’ through a series of meticulously crafted designs that draw from philosophical, mythological, religious, scientific, and cosmological influences.
His work is characterized by a unique synthesis of art and science, where each creation tells a story that transcends time and cultural boundaries. Aggarwal’s couture pieces are not merely garments but intricate narratives that bridge the past and future, seamlessly integrating traditional techniques with modern materials and sustainable practices.
In this interview, Amit Aggarwal delves into the inspirations behind ANTEVORTA, his approach to sustainability, and his vision for the future of couture.
How did the concept of “time” evolve into the five distinct identities showcased in ANTEVORTA?
ANTEVORTA explores the concept of ‘Time’ through five distinct perspectives, blending philosophical, mythological, religious, scientific, and cosmological influences. This conceptual line merges these diverse elements to create a unique brand identity, reflecting the intricate details that define our world.
NOWNESS captures the ephemeral beauty of a star’s lifecycle, from its birth to its supernova. Each garment in the collection shimmers like starlight, adorned with crystal details that sparkle against dark fabrics, transforming the runway into a miniature galaxy.
LINEARITY is inspired by the one-way flow of time, reflecting the concept of determinism and irreversible events. The collection features symmetrical garments with curves and twists, embodying the cause-and-effect dynamic inherent in the linear progression from past to present to future.
ETERNITY embraces the cyclical concept of time and Hindu reincarnation, revitalizing pre-loved Banarasi sarees by looping past, present, and future. Using signature cording techniques, it preserves and transforms these traditional textiles, honoring their timeless essence while reinterpreting classic draping styles.
CONJURER, inspired by Cronus and Einstein’s Theory of Relativity, explores the manipulation of time. The collection’s distinctive garments reflect the expansion, contraction, and loops of time, merging mythological and scientific themes into their structures.
BALANCE, inspired by Taoist principles, embodies universal equilibrium through intricately hand-embroidered tessellations and parametric patterns. Utilizing corded textiles, bugle beads, and signature lamina scale embroidery, the multi-layered designs create visual illusions of infinite patterns, reflecting the balancing act of time.
How did you balance the technical aspects of the collection with its emotional and philosophical depth?
Our design philosophy centers on the integration of science and art to balance the technical and emotional dimensions of our assortment. We aim to combine traditional craftsmanship with contemporary materials and techniques to produce objects that reflect a dialogue between the past and future. Our path began with analyzing the manipulation and shape of textiles, taking cues from architecture and the natural world, and expanding to incorporate advanced technologies and sustainable methods. We believe that fashion is a very effective storytelling tool, and every piece we design tells a story that links the wearer to the greater human experience
How do you see the role of couture evolving in the fashion industry, and how does your work contribute to this evolution?
Couture remains relevant today because it embodies timeless craftsmanship and artistry. It provides designers with a platform to showcase their personality and creativity uniquely, pushing boundaries and experimenting with innovative techniques. Couture has a unique ability to capture and celebrate the essence of who you are, especially during significant life events. Whether it’s a wedding, a milestone anniversary, or another important occasion, couture, with its artistry, design, and the emotions it evokes, can reflect your true self. It’s wonderful to cherish and commemorate these special moments with something as unique and expressive as couture.
Your work often blends traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics. How do you strike a balance between heritage and innovation?
Our approach to blending traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics is both intricate and innovative. We deeply respect traditional techniques such as embroidery, weaving, and metalwork, seamlessly integrating these methods into our designs to preserve their cultural significance and artistry. To create contemporary appeal, we reinterpret traditional motifs and methods through a modern lens. This involves experimenting with new materials, techniques, and silhouettes that align with current fashion trends while staying true to our roots.
Each collection tells a story that bridges the past and present. Our designs weave narratives that connect traditional cultural elements with modern sensibilities while creating a cohesive and resonant design language. Collaborating with artisan families ensures that traditional techniques are preserved and celebrated. These partnerships infuse our designs with authenticity while pushing the boundaries of conventional design. This balance of heritage and innovation enables us to honor the past while embracing the future.
How has your understanding of sustainability evolved over the years, and how is it reflected in your designs?
My interpretation of sustainability has developed significantly over the years, and this transformation is evident in my designs. ANTEVORTA embodies our dedication to mindful creativity in high fashion. By utilizing pre-loved Banarasi sarees and applying our unique micro-pleating techniques, we have promoted the concept of sustainability and innovation in our recent high fashion collection. This approach challenges the conventional boundaries of high fashion through inventive techniques and a contemporary design language, resulting in a harmonious fusion of traditional and modern aesthetics.
Incorporating sustainability into my collections has always been a fundamental aspect of my design philosophy. From the outset, I have been committed to developing fashion that respects and conserves the environment. This dedication is exemplified in our choice of materials and techniques. We extensively incorporate recycled and upcycled materials, transforming waste into beautiful, wearable art. We employ recycled plastic and metallic polymers, seamlessly integrating them into our designs. This not only minimizes waste but also demonstrates the potential of sustainable materials in creating high-fashion pieces. Each piece is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring that it can be treasured and worn for years. Our goal is to collaborate with artisanal families to uphold and safeguard their cultural heritage. For us, it is all about creating fashion that aligns with the environment and the community, laying the foundation for a more responsible and conscious future.
How do you envision ANTEVORTA resonating with the audience, both in India and internationally?
ANTEVORTA has its distinctive design language, we expect to make a notable impact in both Indian and international markets. We are often recognized for our innovative approach to traditional Indian textiles with modern tweaks. With ANTEVORTA we feel that we will once again be able to bridge the gap between Indian tradition and international fashion trends, making them appealing to both domestic and global audiences. Our innovative approach and strategic presence in major fashion arenas help maintain and expand our circle of influence across different markets.
What inspires you outside of the fashion world, and how do these influences find their way into your collections?
I often draw inspiration from architecture. Our work frequently incorporates structural elements and geometric patterns, reflecting a deep appreciation for architectural forms and principles. All our garments embody a sense of spatial awareness and structure. Our use of structure and form can be seen as a direct nod to the principles of architecture, transforming fashion into a dynamic and spatial art form.
How do you define the Amit Aggarwal woman, and how has your target audience evolved over time?
Over the years, the consumers have evolved significantly. Today consumers have become more experimental and bolder with their choices. Moreover, they are choosing to wear garments that are a representation of their personality. They love the play of different colours and materials that we use to create contemporary ensembles. In terms of menswear, we create garments for traditional Indian men that have evolved and started accepting new and innovative forms of clothing.
How do you see the role of technology in shaping the future of fashion, and how is your brand adapting to these changes?
The essence of human creativity or evolution is irreplaceable. I consider technology as a muse, not a threat. It inspires me to explore uncharted territories, experiment with unconventional materials, and redefine the very essence of fashion. I believe technology is a catalyst that empowers designers to break free from the ordinary and embrace a future where creativity knows no bounds. In embracing the potential of technology in fashion, we embark on a journey to explore the uncharted territories of creativity and design, enriching the human experience rather than diminishing it.
Can you elaborate on the specific mythological, religious, scientific, and cosmological elements that influenced the collection?
Time is an enigmatic force behind this collection. Indefinable, incomprehensible, and intangible, we drew inspiration from the smallest elements that shape our existence. This collection blends philosophical, mythological, religious, scientific, and cosmological ideas, creating a unique vocabulary for the brand. With ANTEVORTA, we delve into the profound relationship between time and the universe, emphasizing that nothing exists independently of it. In the ANTEVORTA collection, each design encapsulates the essence of time through various thematic elements:
NOWNESS: This perspective captures fleeting moments and the lifecycle of a star. The garments shimmer with intricate crystal detailing’s, transforming the runway into a galaxy.
LINEARITY: Drawing inspiration from the linear concept of time, seeing it as a one-way flow from past to present to future. This concept has been embodied in the collection’s symmetrical garments, with curves and twists that evoke a cause-and-effect dynamic in the designs.
ETERNITY: Taking inspiration from the cyclical concept of time and embracing the concept of reincarnation, we repurpose pre-loved Banarasi sarees. Our signature cording techniques and innovative draping breathed a new lease of life into these age-old textiles.
CONJURER: Drawing from Cronus and Einstein’s Theory of Relativity, these pieces feature structures that expand, contract, and loop, symbolizing the manipulation of time.
How did you translate these abstract concepts into tangible, wearable designs?
Time is endless and boundless, shapes our journey, linking every thread and soul in the cosmic dance. Within its embrace, everything finds its place and purpose, united in the eternal rhythm of the universe.
TIME is an enigmatic force – behind our new couture line as we delve deeper into the profound connection between time and the universe, highlighting that nothing exists outside its influence.
We have tried capturing different identities of time in our designs –
– NOWNESS captures fleeting moments in shimmering details.
– LINEARITY represents the irreversible flow of time with symmetrical designs.
– ETERNITY embraces the cyclical nature of life by repurposing traditional textiles.
– CONJURER manipulates time’s flow with dynamic structures.
– BALANCE reflects universal equilibrium with intricate hand-embroidered patterns.
What new textiles and techniques were introduced in ANTEVORTA, and how do they contribute to the overall narrative?
ANTEVORTA will explore the concept of ‘Time’ from the perspective of five distinct identities, outlining perspectives from five schools of thought parallel to the fundamental concepts of time. ANTEVORTA embraces theatricality, where garments shimmer with starlight through intricate crystal detailing, transforming the runway into a celestial spectacle. Our designs intricately reflect the flow of time, reinterpreting age-old textiles like Banarasi along with hand-embroidered tessellations and elevated techniques, enhancing the dramatic essence of our new couture line.
Given the growing luxury market in the UAE, are there plans to expand your presence in this region?
The UAE represents a dynamic and promising market for fashion, offering substantial opportunities for Indian designers. This region is distinguished by its affluent consumer base, which has a strong appetite for luxury and designer wear. As the UAE’s fashion industry continues to expand, there is an increasing demand for high-end, unique fashion offerings. As the UAE continues to thrive as a fashion hub, we anticipate seeing significant and fruitful developments in this vibrant market in the near future.
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