We talk exclusively to Florence Tétier, Creative Director about the new Jean Paul Gaultier X Mytheresa collection and all things Gaultier.
True to the house’s impressive heritage, the 20-piece exclusive capsule collection features ready-to-wear and accessories reinterpreting iconic silhouettes in sequins, rhinestones, Tattoo prints and transparent illusions from the house.
In addition Florence Tétier has also created three exaggeratedly oversized jewellery pieces with intertwined JPG letters in rhinestones. Jean Paul Gaultier and Mytheresa have elevated key styles for this collection referencing the house’s archives.
You re-issued 20 of Jean Paul Gaultier signature styles for this exclusive capsule collection for Mytheresa. How did the capsule collection first come about?
We were meeting with Tiffany and the capsule idea came quite naturally. She was obsessed with sparkles, and I am too. It was like a say no more situation.
Which styles and elements of this capsule collection stand out for you most and why?
I personally love the sequins marinière and denim trompe l’oeil, because it’s very subtle, almost like a JPG iconic/basic item but with a twist.
What are the greatest challenges of taking over the creative lead of a house like Jean Paul Gaultier?
Staying true to his archives and legacy but keeping it very ‘now’.
One often refers to Jean Paul Gaultier as “l’enfant terrible de la mode” who was more than just a fashion designer. What are your thoughts on this?
I could not agree more. He did everything true to his feelings and beliefs, never cared about what he was supposed to do to be a crowd-pleaser, yet he became one. I try to keep this spirit.
When working on a new collection, what does your creative process usually look like?
It comes into a bigger project. Like there’s a theme for the whole year, then there’s values and ambitions, different for every drop. Basically I will come up with a storytelling, some inspirations and keywords, then begins the team work with the studio and the house in general.
What is it like being able to dip into the archives of such a respected house?
It’s incredible and quite vertiginous since it simply never ends, there’s a new story to dig every day, it’s very stimulating.
You’ve been tasked to keep Jean Paul Gaultier’s legacy alive by bringing the past into the future and you’ve decided to do that collaboratively, working with designers like Glenn Martens and Olivier Rousteing among others. Can you explain this choice?
It was not my choice, it was Jean Paul’s actually, who suggested this approach when he retired. I’m the lead for this project, and, I guess, was chosen because my approach is more into creative direction. Through my magazine (Novembre) I’ve lead many many different projects from exhibitions to shoots, consulting for collections, making jewelry, seeking talents, so I really enjoy this collaborative process and could not think of it differently.
Anything exciting coming up for the Jean Paul Gaultier house that you can share with us?
I cannot reveal anything regarding collaborations and collections, but I can say that we will open more and more our headquarters to different physical moments, extended projects and culture at large, and it’s pretty exciting, post pandemic, to be able to gather our Gaultier family in our own home.
The Jean Paul Gaultier x Mytheresa exclusive capsule collection launches globally on Mytheresa from December 7th directed by Mytheresa Chief Creative Officer Julian Paul, photographed by Kenny Germé and featuring model Dorothy Cheng.
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Images: Supplied, Main image credit: Laura Pelissier
