Spring/Summer 2026 is set to be an exciting season ahead with a roster of anticipated creative debuts on the horizon.

Starting with New York Fashion Week, which ends tonight (September 16, 2025), a new vanguard of talent emerged. Grounded with experimentation and new creative energy, this made for a buzzy opening act of a month-long stint of runway shows. Whether from established founders, new artistic directors, or emerging names, the runways showed promise and potential.

Here, Emirates Woman rounds up the most talked-about collections from New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026:

Khaite

Confident, bold, and pushing New York fashion into sharper focus, Catherine Holstein pushed her aesthetic into bolder territory. For SS26, there is a combined architectural tailoring with punk-edged flourishes at Khaite. Think: corset leather blazers with wrap details, floor-sweeping strapless gowns in suiting fabrics frilled with organza – big ’80s energy throughout. The collection felt strong, dangerous, and refined, cementing Khaite’s position as New York’s power label.

Proenza Schouler

Rachel Scott’s first runway outing as creative director sees a shift in direction that balances Proenza Schouler’s established design DNA, injected with Scott’s own artistic voice. There were raw and relaxed edges, tiered layers, and frayed knits, injected with a Caribbean influence of bright solar prints and unexpected colour bursts. The familiar Proenza architecture remains, but revitalised – more tactile, more expressive.

Calvin Klein

Veronica Leoni’s second Calvin Klein runway doubles down on 1990s minimalism with a twist. There was a renewed attention to underwear, which was reimagined for SS26 as outerwear, functional elements, slouchy cowboy boots, and double denim. The collection was a showcase of pared-back modern minimalism injected with confidence and personality.

Michael Kors

A hefty dose of escapism in an earthy, travel-infused palette drove the direction for Michael Kors this season. Loose silhouettes, kaftans, and draped separates suited for warm climates updated for the modern jet-setter’s life. Accessories like pendant necklaces, tassel details, and embellished belts gave the collection personality without overwhelming the wearable cores.

Ralph Lauren

For SS26, Ralph Lauren was a reaffirmation of heritage with calm confidence – the kind of timeless simplicity that holds its own. The collection leaned into classic Americana: crisp tailoring, slip dresses, sarong wraps, bandeau pieces under structured layers in a colour palette of black, white, with pops of red, and accessorised with sparkly add-ons.

Altuzarra

Joseph Altuzarra remains consistent in delivering looks that excite the senses while keeping it sophisticated. Prints and drapes interplay with sensual structure, sharp cutting, and fabric contrast are the focus for the new season. The collection suggests polish, wearability, plus the intellectual flair Altuzarra is known for.

Brandon Maxwell

Texan designer Brandon Maxwell’s SS26 collection features signature style reimagined into powerful silhouettes with a hint of playfulness. This cowboy-meets-downtown experimental energy is seen via graphic prints and finishing touches that make a beautiful balance on the overall looks – less formulaic and more daring.

Jason Wu

Jason Wu delivered luxury dressing with sharp formal nods inspired by artist Robert Rauschenberg’s “Hoarfrost” series. SS26 previews feminine proportions, refined silhouettes, and romantic touches, resulting in creations that resemble works of art. It may not be boundary-pushing radical, but it makes a strong sartorial statement for elevated daytime and evening wear.

Prabal Gurung

For SS26, Prabal Gurung embraces modern-day minimalism and an effortless sense of refined femininity. The New York designer brings forth an optimistic collection entitled “Angels in America,” featuring East-meets-West silhouettes and fabrications in a technicolour display of day-to-night glamour.

Tory Burch

For SS26, Tory Burch stayed true to its classic design codes of American sportswear juxtaposed with preppy touches, hand-stitched embellishments, and deconstructed extremes that make it feel contemporary and fresh. Accessories-wise, there was a nod to the vintage 1950s style. “We continued to reinterpret American sportswear, juxtaposed with touches of romance, sentimentality, and craft,” Burch explains.

Monse

Marking a decade of Monse, the SS26 collection showcased new versions of deconstruction and a mastery of drapery, roped in with references to the sea under Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim’s creative helm. Balanced by wearability and tailored forms, the aesthetic for this season was a balance of structural discipline, technicality, and cool-girl ease that felt fresh yet still distinctly Monse.

COS

Karin Gustafsson, Design Director at COS, continues to elevate the brand. Set inside the Greenpoint Terminal Warehouse, the collection delivered clean lines, sculptural forms inspired by the 1950s New Look silhouettes, and a restrained palette of inky navy, greys, blacks, grounded by neutrals. Textures also mattered with the use of mixed fabrications like soft shearling, buttery leather, wool, and sheer layers.

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