While certain names from the Arab fashion world have become synonymous with the official haute couture week calendar, it is always a moment of pride to see new additions.
Both Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab have firmly held their status in the big league for years — George Hobeika is also on a similar trajectory. The latest to join the Arab fashion club going global is Ashi Studio. Designer Mohammad Ashi, who hails from Saudi Arabia and is known for the unique treatment and allure he brings to the couture world, made his debut this Fall-Winter season.
Here’s our overview of the remarkable debut and all the other astounding collections that represented the Arab diaspora.
Zuhair Murad
Zuhair Murad, established in 1997 in Beirut and Paris, has become a globally recognized fashion house renowned for its high-octane clothing. The brand blends ancient heritage with a modern twist, embodying craftsmanship, glamour, and reverie. Zuhair Murad’s latest collection explored gothic aesthetics and mysterious creatures of the night.
The runway showcased silver details resembling moth wings, spider web-like embroidery, tulle bows, and necklines reminiscent of bat silhouettes. A leather trench coat adorned with arachnid studs contributed to the collection’s overall gothic mood. Models walking the runway evoked modern Edgar Allan Poe muses in gowns featuring peekaboo lace corsets, cage skirts, and raven-like feather embellishments.
Elie Saab
Elie Saab, who established his eponymous label in 1982 at the age of 18, has become a prominent figure in the haute couture industry. The Elie Saab house, with ateliers in Paris and Beirut, has expanded its offerings into ready-to-wear, bridal, accessories, eyewear, fragrance, and even home interiors through the MAISON line. Known for its inherent savoir-faire and innate elegance, the brand drew inspiration from period movies set in the Middle Ages for its latest collection.
Despite the less glamorous nature of that era, Elie Saab transformed the monastic medieval lines into a lavish and opulent celebration of glamour. Sequined embroideries adorned delicate chiffon gowns with fitted bodices, often accompanied by matching capes or veils. Saab’s interpretation infused the Middle Ages with luminosity and splendour they had never seen before.
Ashi Studio
Since 2007, Saudi-originated Ashi Studio has captivated the world with its couture, characterized by mastery of volume, purity in each line, and a fusion of baroque and minimalist styles. Embracing a resolutely 21st-century aesthetic, Ashi Studio embarked on a new chapter in 2023, seeking a contemporary expression of timeless elegance.
Marking its debut on the official couture week calendar, Ashi Studio’s latest show, titled “The Essence,” took place at the opulent Théâtre du Chatelet in Paris. Inspired by Patrick Suskind’s novel “Perfume,” the collection explored themes of passion, obsession, and mystery. It served as a bold and poetic ode to dark romance, diversity, and sensuality tinged with danger.
Georges Hobeika
Maison Georges Hobeika, founded in 1995, operates in both Beirut and Paris, representing one of the esteemed Lebanese Couture houses that have gained international recognition. The brand’s creations have graced numerous red carpets, adorning celebrities such as Diane Kruger, Beyonce, and Zendaya. Known for fusing simplicity and sophistication, romance and freedom, Maison Georges Hobeika plays with expressive colours and sexy yet elegant cuts.
During Paris Couture Week, the Georges Hobeika Couture Fall 2023 collection, titled “Un Reve” (meaning “A Dream”), was unveiled, presenting an enchanting and poetic perspective that celebrates self-confidence, femininity, and the power of dreams. While the brand is familiar with power-dressing and bold colour palettes, this collection opted for a softer colour palette and fluid shapes, evoking a gentle and dreamlike aesthetic
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