Designer Alice Temperley is the innovative force behind British brand Temperley London — the luxury label responsible for weaving fairytale-esque narratives into fashion.
With a career spanning over two decades, Alice has established herself as a leading figure in the realm of luxury. Today, we delve into her latest collections, including the Spring/Summer and Ramadan lines, exploring her design inspirations and commitment to cultural inclusivity.
We also discuss Temperley London’s strategic expansion into the Middle East, following the recent acquisition by Dubai-based investment firm Times Square Group. From plans for a new flagship store in London to broader international growth initiatives, Alice shares her vision for the brand’s future.
Read below as Emirates Woman uncovers the practical insights and strategic direction driving Temperley London’s evolution in the world of fashion.
How has Temperley London’s partnership with Times Square Group influenced your brand’s expansion in the Middle East?
We will be expanding our collections again with more product categories and will be excited to do special capsule collections dedicated to the market. Temperley will also be introducing our beautiful bridal collection to the region, which really is very beautiful. Retail expansion will start with the opening now of a lovely new store and our retail expansion has started with the opening of our newest boutique in The Galleria Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi.
Can you share insights into the creative process behind your upcoming Spring/Summer 2024 collection, and how it resonates with Middle Eastern aesthetics and preferences?
Encompassing the courageous character of the Temperley woman, championing the bohemian disregard for the norm, with a fusion of influences — spanning eras, countries, crafts, and traditions. The inspiration for SS24 is rooted in West Country lore — sparked by the discovery that the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo III de’ Medici, prized Somerset for its exquisite lace, taking the fine creations back to the Florentine courts: the cultural hub of Renaissance Europe. Using the sartorial decadence of this era — across Italy and Elizabethan Britain — with the rugged textures in the lives of the lacemakers: hammered silks, ornate embellishment, braided leathers with linen, cords, and cotton. Influenced heavily by Sally Potter’s 1992 adaptation of Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, Tilda Swinton in the enigmatic title role and the sumptuous costumes of Sandy Powell, the approach to curation, design pairings and styling has a frenetic and unconventional feel. ‘For those with an adventurous spirit and a deep curiosity about life’, says Alice Temperley MBE. ‘This collection celebrates creative self-expression and female empowerment through the ages — from the lacemakers of the 16th century to today.’ Showcasing a Temperley signature: intricate hand-beaded sequin work on strong, timeless silhouettes, the Alessia story comprises a dress for all occasions and a kimono-style coat. Spirited flourishes of calligraphy and Tudor rosebuds beside Italian fresco filigree motifs, reimagined with bold contrasting colours, exuding slick modernism with clean lines and structured voile paneling. A paragon of the brand’s painstaking handpainted prints, the Akira story sees rainbow-hued doves, jewels and heraldic scrolls engineered into scenic compositions across hammered satin evening wear, plus a fabulous new cover-up: a fringed cape. Romantic and contemporary, impeccable simplicity and showstopping glamour, easy comfort and effortless elegance — exquisite craftsmanship, weaving a connection between the past and present. Our collections are a labour of love with references, pattern and fabric development and middle eastern clients really understand and appreciate the value in this.
What strategies do you envision for strengthening Temperley London’s presence in the Middle Eastern market?
I will be visiting the region more and really listening to market demands and working very closely with our new partners on exciting new product categories.
Could you elaborate on the inspiration and key elements of your latest Bridal collection, and how it caters to brides in the Middle East?
The starting point in finding inspiration for our Aurora collection came from the ever-present wedding accessory — the bouquet. Throughout this collection the history, traditions and storytelling of floral arrangements are lovingly celebrated. Whether it’s a nod to the ancient Grecian origins; in the trailing vine-like strap embellishment on the Edelweiss dress or en masse in the cornucopia of intricately, engineered garlands on the Clea — there are tributes to the bouquet to be found wherever you look. It was during the renaissance period that the ancient custom of giving floral bouquets was revived, and we’ve taken further influence from this era, both by revisiting a new favourite heritage bridal embroideries and in finding the mood for the collection within this particularly romantic period of history. A time of Romeo and Juliet, Botticelli and Galileo’s discovery of the Cosmos; the perfect backdrop for star crossed lovers. The heavily embellished styles within the collection are particularly well rooted in the renaissance setting; the Sia and Crossbone lattice styles evoking floral interpretations of a starry nights’ sky and the Neve Dress epitomising classical revival with Greek Goddess perfection. Our bridal collection is modest and elegant and a very softly constructed second skin in the finest fabrics with the very best embroideries. Sleeves and cover ups work perfectly for the middle east market, very Sensual without being overtly sexy.
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Ramadan is a significant cultural event in the Middle East. How do you approach designing collections tailored for this occasion, and what unique elements can we expect in your upcoming Ramadan collection?
We have always had a good business in our more decorative kaftans and recently our beautiful embroidered house coats, that are loved everywhere as a layering piece. It is a really exciting time, as we will now have the ability to design more in these stories that caters to the Middle East.
How do you integrate traditional craftsmanship and modern design in your collections to appeal to Middle Eastern consumers?
I think Middle Eastern women, really understand quality and appreciate craftsmanship. Our products are a labour of love from research to the shop floor and I truly believe each piece has a story. Once people connect with the brand and understand this, there is an application of the execution and the value — timeless heirloom with a modern classic elegance.
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As Temperley London continues to grow globally, how do you maintain the brand’s British heritage while adapting to diverse cultural preferences, especially in the Middle East?
Stay true to the inspiration and the ingredients — if you try too hard appeal to markets you lose. It’s about offering the story in new silhouettes and offering new price points and lengths etc to appeal to the wider audience with what we are known for.
In light of the recent acquisition, what are your aspirations for the future of Temperley London in the Middle East, and how do you plan to innovate and evolve within this market?
It’s really to share our story, diversify and bring our beautiful brand to the region. Our stores in the Dubai Mall, on the fashion avenue and in the The Galleria Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi are beautiful and the start of a new chapter.
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