A whirlwind jaunt to Paris with Hermès, you say? Mais oui, count me in – bien sûr! The City of Lights is one of my all-time favourites at best, but throw in being hosted by Hermès, an interview with their formidable in-house perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena, and a mystical launch party and dinner for their new fragrance, Le Jardin de Monsieur Li, and it became very special indeed. Here’s my Instagram diary of the trip…
DAY ONE
DXB >>> CDG. Incidentally, you should really watch Chef – the perfect in-flight movie with the jauntiest soundtrack of all time.
I arrive at the Prince de Galles Hotel on Avenue George V to goodies on the bed. No rest for the wicked, though – it’s off for a personal tour of the Hermès flagship store on Rue du Faubourg, including a poke around the invite-only Hermès museum at the very top. Overflowing with artifacts collected by the family over the years, it’s a curiosity shop of Samurai saddles and sold silver tea sets, presided over by the Head of Heritage – a lady whose style and grace was only overtaken by her encyclopaedic knowledge of every single piece. In the corner sat Émile Hermès’ original desk, above it the painting of a horse and cart which formed the house’s logo to begin with.
I made it my business to try on all the jewellery, a thrill to say the least. My favourite? This diamond-encrusted incarnation of my dream watch – the punk-tinged Medor, where the clock face is hidden behind a cabochon. So many of the jewellery pieces take inspiration in some way from the equestrian heritage of the brand – a horsebit here, a hoof motif there – but all incorporated in truly unique, subtle ways.
It was soon time for the press launch, held at the impressive, red-lit Pagoda Loo in the 8th. Once belonging to the antiquarian Ching-Tsai Loo, it was built in 1926 and was the perfect setting for our impending journey through China. Each floor revealed a different installation – from living walls embedded with the fragrance, to ancient Chinese instruments being played in a room wallpapered with calligraphy and musical scores.
Live Bonsai-tree cutting on the balcony.
A delicious dinner where Pierre-Alexis Dumas, artistic director of the company (and also Thierry Hermès’ great-great-great grandson) gave a speech.
DAY TWO
There was just enough time before I interviewed Jean-Claude Ellena, perfumer extraordinaire, for a coffee in bed surrounded by orange bags. Happiness, squared.
As much of a poet as a perfumer, the wonderful Jean-Claude and I after our chat.
A quick croissant in the hotel’s marble-decked breakfast room before jumping in the car and heading back. Short, but very sweet.
