A far Eastern flavour and a subtle resetting of the dial for Giambattista Valli meant a spring/summer 2015 collection full of ideas, contrasts and beguiling beauty.For a man whose brand is so rooted in femininity, it comes as a surprise to hear Giambattista Valli claim that he has no female muse. In fact, that he has no muse at all.
“The only muse I have is curiosity,” was what the Roman-born designer told The New York Times last month, after being quizzed on the inspirations that drive him. It’s a non-committal stance that certainly provides more freedom to segue down new paths – which, incidentally, is exactly what he’s been up to over the past few seasons. Famed for his super-pretty aesthetic, his dramatic proportion play and his short, often froufrou dresses, his version of femininity is rich, feverishly girly and romantic. A couturier at heart, Valli’s opulent detailing can’t be escaped – painstakingly executed in his haute couture line, but still sprinkled decadently over his ready to wear as well. A rare treat, really.
So although the DNA that’s so far underpinned his brand has been somewhat put on ice, that’s not to say that this new direction isn’t an entirely welcome one. For a start, the man can cut a mean trouser. Long, skinny, with a flared trumpet hem and a crisp crease running down the front, these represented the elegant side of the 1970s takeover this season.
Some came decorated in Chinoiserie-style embroidery, a motif that was carried through on drop-waist shifts and origami-esque pleated mini dresses. It was a nod to his Oriental influence, looking to Japan’s postwar Metabolist movement, which balanced industrial and artisanal design.
In layman’s terms, this translated into a Ming vase palette and branch prints bursting with blossoms, brought to life as 3D appliqué. Beautiful satin jacquards and macramé lace had a hand-crafted feel, but were cleverly juxtaposed against crepe and chiffon – something a tad more manufactured. Pastel pink came spliced with black and heavy hardware punctuated otherwise delicate ensembles. Yin and yang, as the Chinese might say.
The old and the new, the masculine and the feminine – there’s enduring appeal hidden in that balance.
Giambattista Valli is available in Saks Fifth Avenue, Burjuman Shopping Centre, Dubai (04) 501 2700
