This year, the fashion world is abuzz with anticipation as H&M unveils a groundbreaking collaboration with the multifaceted Indian designer. The partnership marks a pivotal moment in the intersection of high street fashion and luxury design, promising to bring Indian artistry to a global audience.
Anamika Khanna is a Kolkata-based designer, who renowned for her avant-garde yet contemporary aesthetic. The visionary designer has redefined many a traditional Indian silhouettes and brought a fresh perspective to life.
From deconstructing a sari by hybridizing it with a dhoti to adding a bit of punk-rock edginess in otherwise simplified Indian attires – nobody does it quite like her.
Her ability to seamlessly blend the richness of Indian heritage with modern sensibilities has made her a global fashion icon. With a career spanning over two decades, Anamika has consistently pushed the boundaries and reinvented herself.
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This H&M X Anamika Khanna collaboration is not merely a meeting of two brands; it’s a cultural exchange, a celebration of diversity, and a testament to the enduring allure of Indian aesthetics.
As Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor at H&M, aptly puts it, “India is an exciting and growing market for us. There are many great local designers, and the textile industry is highly respected for its wonderful craft traditions.”
In an interview with the two women at the helm of this collaboration, we delve deeper into the partnership, exploring the creative process, the inspiration behind the collection, and the vision for the future.
Why did you partner with Anamika for this collaboration?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: Overall, India is an exciting and growing market for us. There are many great local designers, and the textile industry is highly respected for its wonderful craft traditions. This is also a wonderful opportunity to promote a highly respected local talent to a broader audience. Anamika’s style is a unique blend of traditional Indian wear and modern codes, like sportswear. She has developed an exciting approach to juxtaposition, mixing feminine and masculine codes to create something completely fresh.
What was the most important thing you wanted to explore with this collaboration?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: Certainly, something of India and the fascinating flair Anamika has for harnessing colour and playing with patterns—mingling different prints within the same garment. Then, of course, there is creating something new with the embroidery craft.
Anamika Khanna: I’ve always felt Indian fashion gets lost when interpreted by the rest of the world. Often, our fashion — in terms of the culture, the heritage of craft and textile embroideries — is regarded as costume or not wearable or modern enough. Things have changed a lot, and this collection with H&M allows me to take something Indian and make it global and contemporary. It was new for me to think about the silhouettes and style from this international perspective, and it prompted me to rework some of my designs.
How would you describe the mood of the collection?
Anamika Khanna: Easy and loungy — lounge has been an essential part of my design journey. Many years ago, I created a collection in which I converted Indian silhouettes, like the kurta pyjamas or the Indian saree, into sportswear styled with sneakers. That collection launched a new idea of combining contrasts. The more I can do that, the more interesting and challenging it becomes for me.
Can you talk about the silhouettes, colours, and prints?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: Anamika designs clothes to encourage the wearer to express themselves. The silhouettes are fluid and draped, often in a way that can be personalised, such as tied in a knot, so the silhouette changes. The prints are also intriguing. She integrates many fully printed looks, combining traditional colour elements with something more graphic.When you look closely, you can see the colour and placement of prints, like a mash-up, are very specific—this was inspiring and interesting work for our print designers.
Anamika Khanna: The versatility of the whole collection is extremely important to me. Many pieces work for resort wear, but you can also wear them from work into the evening, dress them up or down, and mix and match different things. As for the prints, half are new, and half are reworked from our archives. It was interesting to move on from what we’ve done in the past and bring it to the present.
Do you have any favourite styles?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: The menswear turned out well: the basketball-style shorts and the silk shirts, like pyjamas—loose,airy, perfect for summer months. I wear a lot of menswear myself, and I like the idea of styling the shorts with a feminine blouse.
Anamika Khanna: I wear all my designs at some point. It becomes very personal. So, in this collection, there are a lot of pieces. If I were going out, I would take the matching printed blouse and trousers in silk. I would put on a pair of boots. I would layer some of the jewellery pieces, sling a bag over my shoulder and head out. I can also see myself wearing menswear. That line is getting completely blurred everywhere. I can easily see women embracing the men’s collection or vice versa.
Can you share a little information on the craftsmanship in the collection?
Anamika Khanna: Embroidery is a significant part of my DNA. However, from the very beginning, we’ve modernised it.We employ textiles and crafts from every single part of the country and put them in one melting pot. In this collection with H&M, we’ve used it sparingly, but sometimes just enough to make a statement.
What about the accessories, which are a statement in themselves? How vital was this element of the collection?
Anamika Khanna: The jewellery was about embracing an eclectic mix of things, and I love layering. I’ve always been nonchalant about mixing important pieces with less precious styles.
Ann-Sofie Johansson: The jewellery is exquisite, too. It is very much Anamika’s style. You can layer the collars on top of a crisp white shirt—just a simple gesture that dresses it up further.
What was the collaborative process like?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: Anamika visited us in Sweden twice, which was nice because it became a little bit more personal.Usually, it’s only us who travel. So, we had time to talk about so many other things. She’s an impressive businesswoman and so creative. It’s nice to share our different cultures and find a crossover.
Anamika Khanna: I went to Stockholm, and I found it so beautiful and serene. Everyone in the team, too, is so relaxed and easy. I came in with the perspective, and there was no resistance. As we worked together, the collection developed, and everyone was open. It’s been a lovely learning process. H&M also has a large set-up worldwide with many stores and detailed methodical plans and systems that they follow, whereas I usually figure many things out on the spot. It’s been a wonderful learning experience for me.
How do you imagine the collection will look in-store?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: I think it’s going to pop. It stands out from all the greys and beiges we’ve seen lately and will kick off the season perfectly. It will be eye-catching and intriguing.
The collection will be available at The Dubai Mall and online at ae.hm.com exclusively from 7th of September at 9:00 am.
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Images: Supplied
